Solar highways as well.

You are right. I was thinking they provided better login services, but in reality the best they can do is force a port and offload your certs.

I advise strongly against advertising jellyfin directly to the Internet. Maybe through a reverse proxy, but based on the question I have to say no.

Honestly, I used to seek out Linux for beginners, Linux for dummies, and Linux+ guides. It’s all relatively similar information. The first two may start a little lower and the Linux+ guide should dig a bit deeper.

Do web searches for terms that you don’t understand, and feel free to ask when you have conflicting information. We love to answer questions where you already tried solving it yourself and bicker about the answer.

If he makes it to the end of good term he will say that clean energy was his idea all along and the Democrats were the ones slowing progress.

Since this is a privacy-oriented, it may be possible to disable Bluetooth permanently by modifying the speaker. These options are risky, and could easily result in a non-functional speaker.

Option 1 is to disable the pairing button. If it’s a rubberized button with the contact pressing on the circuit board, you can put electrical tape over that portion of the board. For touch sensors, you could try removing the wiring, but you risk disabling all buttons.

Option 2 is to disable the Bluetooth. You can attempt to remove the antenna or possibly just cutting the traces (metal lines) of the antenna. If you can identify a separate Bluetooth chip, see if you can remove the power to the chip. That could be as easy as desoldering the input pin and lifting it off the pad slightly, or cutting the trace entirely.

I advise strongly against dropping it. That’s only handy if you need to recover data. A shock will most likely reduce the life of the drive. If it doesn’t work as expected after my advice, do not put data on it.

My thought is that the USB enclosure may not have enough power up spin up the drive. I have had up purchase separate ac adapters in the past to spin up mechanical drives for exactly this reason.

The easiest test is to just put it inside a machine with standard cabling and power it up. If it works, it’s your enclosure. If not, move on. Don’t use it.

If it works fine in the system, get a different enclosure. This one should work.

https://www.amazon.com/Enclosure-CLAVOOP-External-SATA-Recovery/dp/B0D6RH6JBH

It does, and it reads very much like satire. Malus (Malice?) seemed to deliver on a couple projects requested by the YouTuber posted by OP.

Thanks for fixing my links.

Stay upclicked, my friend.

196 communities: 196@lemmy.blahaj.zone onehundredninetysix@lemmy.blahaj.zone 196@lemmy.world

Funhole, if it’s technically oriented and is homemade. You should look around and see if your content fits. funhole@lemmy.sdf.org

Find a used one for sale. Bonus points if it has any kind of management. Replace the battery. If at all possible, have it unmount the drive at a certain percentage.

I have nfs shares on my truenas for my docker containers on proxmox. I put the info in my guest’s fstab and they usually mount at boot to /srv folders I created and specified.

I purchase a bunch of machines off government auction, patch then up, and pass them back out for very little. Anything with 4 cores and 8 GB memory should do it. If you can get something with DDR4, that’s a big step. Bonus points of it was made after 2018.

I started with docker desktop on Linux thinking it was the easiest way to get started. It initially ran well, but I started having weird stability issues. Moving to the cli resolved this. Relying on the documentation and web searches will help you quickly gain familiarity.

$60 seems to be the comparable price. I’d buy now before there is a run on PSUs.

Woof, good theory. There is (or at least used to be) a section of board next to the CPU that controls the voltage, inherently controlling the internal clock speed and the FSB. As the temps increased, resistances and compositions possibly changed, causing that area to perform out of spec, theoretically damaging the board, CPU and memory.

Just to be safe though, I would not trust that PSU either. Another idea is that the PSU was malfunctioning and sent inconsistent voltages, resulting in a multi-component failure.

If you were a business that could afford to gamble on it I’d say risk it. $50 is a low cost for peace of mind. That PSU can go to local market at $10, with a disclaimer.

I revived my second WAP today by soldering on a serial header and reloading the firmware. Sounds badass, but I broke it myself and then did a crap job trying to improvise and revive it the first time. I had to buy the correct tools before I could try again.

On the other hand, my SMB shares were mysteriously down this morning. Easy fix, but weird.

Wow, it’s super weird to have a system catastrophically fail and kill all the memory like that.

Ok my 20 and your 20 are not the same.

I was saying the large numbers didn’t make sense if you don’t have a large fleet of drives. Say you have ten servers, each with ten drives, and the MTBF is 100 million hours (yay, easy math!). That means that half your drives will have failed after 100k hours, or 11 years of use.

Some of the sites I have been looking at are saying that this number will increase significantly because 8 hours of daily use would give you about 33 years of use.

I think I like the annualized failure rate better, but I don’t think either really tell a great picture.

https://www.seagate.com/support/kb/hard-disk-drive-reliability-and-mtbf-afr-174791en/

https://ssdcentral.net/hddfail/

I would rather if the annualized rate were recalculated annually.

Regarding the controllers, that has been nagging at me this whole conversation. Most SATA peripheral cards do not have heat sinks, but most SAS cards do. The SAS cards at least have a more rugged appearance.